Turn Your Bike Into A Motor Bike
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Friction drive motorized kits offer far and away, the simplest installation, of any bicycle drive approaches. After all, all you have to do is to do is to get the friction roller in contact with the tire at a right angle. The installation will include a mounting bracket (typically, a ‘U’ shaped bracket) clamped to the rear seat stays, bolting the drive channel to the mounting bracket, attaching the support rods to the bike in the vicinity of the rear axle, and to the drive channel, installing the throttle and (optional) kill switch, and routing the throttle cable/kill switch wire from the motor to the handlebars. This simple installation also means that a friction drive is the easiest drive type to switch from one bike to another.
Tire Wear and Roller Slippage: A properly installed and adjusted friction drive will not wear the tire much more than other drive types. There will be some additional wear, but, running a tire in excess of a thousand miles is not unusual. When the road surface will be wet, some care must be taken when using a friction drive. You do not want ‘jack-rabbit’ starts, for instance. You want to accelerate more slowly. More than with other drive types, the tire pressure impacts drive performance and use – for a standard, 26 inch, 2-1/8 inch ‘balloon’ tire, you should keep the driven tire at about 50 psi. When the road surface is wet, you will need to add additional roller pressure, so that the friction roller presses ‘into’ the tire approximately a quarter inch, or even a little more. When the road surface is dry, the roller pressure can be less. There’s a trade-off involved with roller pressure. Increased roller pressure reduces slippage, but, it decreases performance (and fuel economy.) In a nutshell, you will want to adjust your tire and roller pressure to allow maximum performance, with the least slippage for the conditions. Time, and experience, will soon teach you what ‘settings’ you will need to use. There is one note of caution though – IF the roller is slipping, let off the gas, otherwise, a spinning drive roller could chew a hole in the tire…
FAQ
How fast will I go with a given drive roller? The maximum speed depends almost entirely on the engine speed and the roller diameter. Use the GearRat gearing/speed calculator to determine the maximum possible speed for the engine/roller combination you have. Other factors which can impact the actual top-end speed, are the tire type, tire pressure, and roller pressure. Smooth tires have better performance (and do NOT result in reduced traction, even when wet, on the road.) Tires with lower rolling friction will have better performance than those with higher rolling friction. Increased tire pressure results in lower rolling friction, which results in better performance. And, of course, wind resistance plays a factor, as does the weight of the bike and rider.
Finally, there is one additional point to remember: Even though a larger roller diameter increases the top speed, it also reduces the acceleration (and hill climbing ability) by exactly the same amount.
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Wait a Minute! Doesn’t tire size play a factor in calculating the top speed? With friction drives, No, it does not. With all other drive types, tire size does matter. Here’s why tire size doesn’t matter with a friction drive: The speed of the tire rotation in RPM is related to bike speed, but, it is really the speed of the circumference of the tire, in miles per hour, which is directly related to bike speed. After all, the tire is in physical contact with the road, and if there is no slippage, the tire circumference speed and the bike speed HAVE to be equal. Likewise, if there is no slippage, the tire circumference speed and the roller circumference speed MUST be equal, because THEY are in direct contact. Think of it this way – Essentially, the tire is just a transfer roller (or idler wheel,) between the drive roller and the road… A smaller tire would spin faster than a larger tire, but, since the circumference of the smaller tire is proportionally less, (by exactly the same ratio as the tire diameter, and the RPM increase,) there is no difference in bike speed.
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My friction Drive is vibrating a lot! What’s the problem? It could be several things. First, check the bearings, to make sure that the drive roller itself isn’t vibrating. Make sure that the wheel is round – an out-of-round wheel can bounce you around. While an out-of-true wheel (side-to-side) could introduce a little vibration, it will definitely wear faster, and will soon become out-of-round because of this. The third common factor in vibration is the tire type – a smooth tire will have virtually no vibration, but a knobby mountain bike tire can cause a LOT of vibration. Really, any repeating tread pattern in contact with the drive roller can lead to vibration. If you occasionally need to go off road, and don’t want a slick tire, get a tire with an inverted tread pattern which has the center portion smooth. The Continental Town and Country tire or Serfas Drifter tire offer low vibration and good off-road performance. Refer to this thread for more information.
Links Bicycle engine:
http://www.flmotorbikes.com/apps/webstore/products/show/1924951
Home page Links Motorized bicycle:
http://flmotorbikes.com/
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